Choopan is a little more polished than your average kebab joint, but it’s the Afghani dishes that draw local families here. Thick, dill-seasoned yogurt is featured prominently: in the creamy dressing over an iceberg-lettuce salad; in a cool, salty drink laced with cucumber; in a drizzle over a plate of sautéed eggplant. A squirt of the topping definitely adds tremendous flavour to the kebabs. The dish of ashak—delicate, almost translucent dumplings stuffed with minced leeks in a rich meat-and-lentil sauce—is a unique treat, as is the refreshing firnee, a milk pudding dessert with cardomom and chopped pistachios.