Lately, lovers of Bangladeshi cuisine, which hums with a vibrant undercurrent of mustard oil, have been trekking to a modest restaurant in the Parkchester neighborhood of the Bronx. Bengali is the lingua franca at Neerob, the subject of this week's $25 and Under column, but English is a viable fallback. It's essential, though, to bring along an adventurous attitude, and it wouldn't hurt to like fish.
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